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Kongo-Gaboni liivatee video jätkuks paneme üles veel mõned videolõigud tüüpilisest liiklemisest Saharast lõunasse jäävas Aafrikas, mis meie arvates väga hästi iseloomustavad siinseid olusid – üks video Kameruni dzhunglirajalt, üks liiklemisest Benin Citys, Nigeerias (kodus mitte järgi teha!), ning üks linnapiltidest Lomés, Togo pealinnas. Vast annavad aimu, kuidas tunne kahel rattal on – lisage veel niiske troopiline kuumus, milles kogu paks tsiklivarustus läbi higistatud, nina ning kurku kriipivad liiklusummiku heitgaasid, silmi sügelema ajav räpaste tänavate tolm ja veoautode diislitahm, pluss kõik need kolmanda maailma võimendatud aroomid, kus solgitorud otse tänavakraavi jooksevad, siis ehk saate tunde kätte ja võib-olla mõistate, miks ka meie liikleme samas stiilis nagu kohalikud, ehk nagu oleks peast soojad.

NB! Kindlasti ei kõlba kasutamiseks mootorrattasõidu õppevideotena tsiviliseeritud Euroopa tingimustes! 😛

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Endine Ülem-Volta, tänase nimega Burkina Faso, tekitas üle ootuste meeldiva emotsiooni, nii et võtsime korraks isegi hoo maha, et ümbritsevat endasse imeda.

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Aafrikas ringi rännates ei saa kuidagi üle ega ümber orjuse teemast – ehkki meie jaoks tundub see keskagse mõistena, on orjakaubandus siin ilma teinud sajandeid ning näiteks Mauritaanias keelustatud alles 1980ndatel. Sugugi mitte vähem huvitav ei ole see, et kuigi oleme harjunud halvasti mõtlema eelkõige just orjakaubanduse lõpptarbijast ehk orjapidajast, on tegelikult sama kuritegelik roll olnud täita vahendajatel, ehk ei kellelgi muul kui siinkandi kunagistel kuulsusrikastel impeeriumidel (sealhulgas meile tuttav Abomey kuningriik), kelle jaoks orjade müük oli peamiseks sissetulekuallikaks.

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Nigeeriaga, mulle tundub, sai “kahtlane” piirkond läbi, ja nüüd oleme ilmselgelt välja jõudnud rikidesse, kuhu ka turistid tahavad tulla – kuigi Beninist või Togost ei teata laias maailmas palju, õnnestus meil mõne päevaga näha shokeerivalt palju valget kontingenti – ehk siis huvi nagu on.

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Pärast Kribi põrutasime otse Limbesse, mis asub samuti mere ääres, kuid kus rannad ei olnud enam kaugeltki mitte nii idüllilised ning kus aina lahistas vihma sadada, päevast päeva. Pidavat olema üks vihmasemaid kante maailmas, kuid isegi kui see nii ei ole, peab ta kindlasti olema üks vihmasemaid kante Saharast lõuna poole jäävas Aafrikas – praegusel vihmaperioodil muidugi eriti. Meie Kesk- ja Lõuna-Aafrika kaardil on üks nurk pühendatud eri linnade kliimaskeemidele, ning Limbest kiviviske kaugusel asuv Douala on ilmselgelt vetejumala pärusmaa, sest juunist septembrini sajab seal igakuiselt maha üle 400 mm vihma.

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Kamerunis oli meil plaan sõita Atlandi ookeani ääres asuvasse Kribisse, kuhu jõudmiseks lõunapiiri äärest on põhimõtteliselt kaks teed – mööda asfalti läbi pealinna Yaounde, või mööda mudarada, aga see-eest otse. Kuid kes see ikka viitsib ringiga minna?

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Teel läbi Gaboni põhjaosa ületasime viimast, ehk neljandat korda ekvaatorit. Võiks ju küsida, miks ekvaator kellelegi korda peaks minema, sest mis ta muud on kui üks imaginaarne joon. Kuid kas pole nii, et säärased asjad, mida käega katsuda ei saa – nagu igasugu reeglid ja määratlused – on meie tsivilisatsioonis hirmus tähtsad?

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Kui nüüd mõtlema hakata, siis oleme Aafrikas üht- või teistpidi kokku puutunud iga külastatud riigi pealinnaga, välja arvatud Maseruga (Lesotho). Vaatamata sellele, et neis huugavates sipelgapesades pole pea kunagi suurt huviväärset, ning hea meelega sõidaks igast viimasest kui ühest suure kaarega mööda, on reaalselt ainult läbisõiduga õnnestunud piirduda vaid Dodoma (Tansaania) ja Maputo (Mosambiik) puhul. Kõigis ülejäänutes oleme veetnud vähemalt ühe öö, enamasti rohkem veel – meenutagem kasvõi pooleteise kuu pikkust boksipeatust Nairobis (Kenya), või siis nädalaid, mis on kulunud viisade ootamisele Djibouti Citys (Djibouti), Lilongwes (Malawi) või Brazzaville’is (Kongo).

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Küll mitte nii pikk, nagu Angola – Kongo DV piiriületus, mis lõppude lõpuks teatavasti luhta läks, oli Kongo – Gaboni piiri ületamisega tükk tegemist.

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