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Hinge kinni hoides

oktoober 01, 2016 Kirjutab: Kariina Rubriik: Aasia


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_mg_1970_v

Pärast mitte just kõige lahedama diagnoosi saamist ei olnud kerge Almatõst lahkuda – pea oli veel enne asjade kokkupakkimist ja tsikli selga istumist täis kümneid stsenaariume kõikvõimalikest viltuminekutest – alustades sellest, et ta ei lähegi üldse käima, lõpetades sellega, et ta sureb välja kõige suuremas liikluskeerises ning põhjustab sellega ohtliku olukorra. Parim, mida ma siiski teha sain, oli hinge kinni hoida.

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Diagnoos

september 28, 2016 Kirjutab: Kariina Rubriik: Aasia, Tehniline


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_mg_1853_v

Kuna oli oht, et Suzuki pärast pikemat (näiteks üleöö) seismist enam ei käivitu, siis otsustasime ilma pikemate vahepeatusteta sõita Kasahstani endisesse pealinna, milleks on Almatõ – endise nimega Alma-Ata.

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Allamäge

september 17, 2016 Kirjutab: Kariina Rubriik: Aasia, Tehniline


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_mg_0471_v

Õnneks ei saanud mäed Tadžikistaniga läbi, vaid neid jagus ka Kõrgõzstani – seal asuvad Tjan-Šani mäed. Nii kõrged need seal muidugi ei olnud, aga siiski pakkusid nad rohkelt silmailu ja sõidumõnu.

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Planeet Pamiir

september 14, 2016 Kirjutab: Margus Rubriik: Aasia


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Veel kõrgemale ja sealt Kõrgõzstani

september 12, 2016 Kirjutab: Margus Rubriik: Aasia


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_mg_7511_v

Murgabist põrutasime põhja suunas. Tee ronis aeglaselt, kuid järjepidevalt üha kõrgemale, ning muutus ka üha viletsamaks. Kuna meil oli ees seni kõige kõrgema kuru – Ak-Baitali – ületus, mis ühtlasi tähistas ka Tadžikistani ja Kõrgõzstani piiri, siis me ei viitnud teel palju aega maastike pildistamisega (seda enam, et ilm oli pilves), vaid pressisime aina edasi – kohe kindlasti ei tahtnud me kuru lähedale suurele kõrgusele telkima jääda.

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Kuidas me observatooriumi otsimas käisime

september 09, 2016 Kirjutab: Kariina Rubriik: Aasia


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Marco Polo lamba sarved

Uhked Marco Polo lammaste sarved Pamiiri mägedes

Kosmosehuvilise füüsikuna oli Margusel tahtmine ära näha Murghabi läheduses asuv observatoorium – mis sest, et välismaalasi sellesse kuuldavasti ei lasta, ja üleüldse pole tegemist mingi teada-tuntud ning märkimisväärse asutusega. Ega me täpselt ei teadnud ka, kus ta asub, ning ka GPS-is polnud selle kohta märget, aga kui on vaja ära näha, siis on vaja ära näha.

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Metsik lääs

september 06, 2016 Kirjutab: Kariina Rubriik: Aasia


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IMG_5538_v

Hommik ei olnud õhtust targem, ehk Margusel oli ikka väga halb olla. Tuli tegutseda. Mõeldes kõikvõimalikele alternatiividele, nagu Marguse toimetamine paarisaja kilomeetri kaugusel olevasse Murghabi või tagasi Horogisse – sest Alichuri küla tundus lihtsalt nii väike ja mõttetu, et seal arsti leida – küsisin sööklapidajalt, kas ehk on siiski võimalik kohapeal abi leida.

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Kõrgus? Kõrgus!

september 02, 2016 Kirjutab: Kariina Rubriik: Aasia


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_MG_4700_v

Langari külast hakkas tee üsna konkreetselt mäkke ronima. Jätsime hüvasti meile mitu päeva teekaaslaseks olnud Pandži jõega, ning ühtlasi vaadetega Afganistanile (tegelikult ka Pakistanile, sest kohati on Pakistani Tadžikistanist eraldav Wakhani koridor nii õbluke, et üle veidi madalamate, Afganistani territooriumil olevate mägede, paistavad mõned Pakistanile kuuluvad lumised “hiiglased”).

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“Afgaani kino”

august 30, 2016 Kirjutab: Margus Rubriik: Aasia


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Taustal olev kaljusein kuulub juba Afghanistaanile

Taustal olev kuuvalgustatud kaljusein kuulub juba Afganistanile

Tadžikistanile olid meil kõrgendatud ootused, kuna teatavasti asuvad seal Pamiirid, ja mäed meile ju meeldivad. Üsna põhjalikku ja huvitavat ülevaadet sellest piirkonnast saab lugeda Go Reisiajakirjast, mistõttu ei hakka siinkohal pika sissejuhatuse peale tähemärke kulutama, vaid läheme kohe asja juurde.

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Vesi on elu II

august 23, 2016 Kirjutab: Margus Rubriik: Aasia


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Uzbekistan-5_v

Kui Usbekistani lääneosa on suuresti inimtühi, siis mida ida poole, seda tihedamaks muutub asustus. Põhjus on muidugi proosaline – idas on rohkem vett.

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