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Namiibia. Namiiiiiiiibia. Tee kulgeb pikalt-pikalt, enne kui horisondi taha ära kaob. Tuul pühib katkematult üle liivaste poolkõrbeväljade. Taevas on kui vesivärvimaal ning ere päike pimestab silmi. Oleksime kui tulnukad võõral planeedil.

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Karoo kõrbel on veel üks pärl pakkuda – Sutherlandi külje all asuv observatoorium.

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Swartbergi kuru ületatud, algas Suur Karoo, ja tõepoolest, see on Karoo suure algustähega. Avar, lai, tühi, üksildane, võimas… Ei ühtegi inimest, ei ühtegi autot. Vaid mõni harv lambakasvatustalu siin-seal horisondile kerkimas ning uhkelt, aga väsinult krigisev tiivikuga veepump laisalt ringe tegemas. Siin võiks mõnda aega lausa elada, et lasta mõtetel settida, selgineda ning et hing rahuneks.

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Kaplinnas me väga palju aega ei veetnud – nii palju kui vajalik, nii vähe kui võimalik. Mitte, et tal otseselt midagi häda oleks olnud, kuid erilisi emotsioone, nagu neid võiks niivõrd legendaarse staatusega linnalt oodata, me eest ei leidnud. Aafrika kui sellise mõistes muidugi väga viks ja viisakas linn – aja või mõne Vana Maailma metropoliga segi – kuid see “miski” jäi nägemata, kuulmata, kogemata.

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Tagasivaatavalt mõned analoogkaameraga plõksitud pildid Araabia poolsaarelt ja osast Ida-Aafrikast on nähtaval siit.

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Lõunarannikul on juba teistmoodi aura. Kuidagi rahulikum, lõõgastunum. Kaplinnale lähenedes muutub mere äärde istutatud aedlinnade üldmulje küll eksklusiivsemaks, ehk isegi veidi upsakaks, kuid loodus ise on pigem vaoshoituma väljendusega.

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Keegi täpselt ei tea, kuidas Lõuna-Aafrika idarannikul asuv Coffee Bay, ehk eestikeeli Kohvilaht, endale nime sai. Räägitakse, et kohvi vedanud laev olla seal kunagi karile jooksnud, ja sealt olla see nimi tulnud. Kuid ega vahet pole – nagu värskelt valmistatud kohvi lõhn hommikul, nii tõmbab ka Coffee Bay inimesi ligi nagu võimas magnet.

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Lesotho on väike riik, eriti Aafrika mõistes – pindalalt vaid umbes 30 000 ruutkilomeetrit, nii et ta risti-rästi läbi sõita või talle üks korralik ring peale teha pole just teab kui raske. See tähendab, kui ilm lubab.

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Lesothoga on nii, et plaan sinna minna susises meil peas juba mõnda aega, kuid Pretorias asuvas Lesotho Kuningriigi saatkonnas kohatud bürokraatia tõttu oleks meil sinna tegelikult peaaegu et minemata jäänud.

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Mosambiigi lõunaosa, või õigemini sealsed rannad, on populaarseks suvituskohaks Lõuna-Aafrika turistidele, ja neid oli meie sealviibimise ajal tõesti palju, ehkki lihavõtteajaga seonduv “migratsioon” polnud veel alanud. Mitte, et meil midagi turistide vastu oleks, kuid kui neid on liiga palju, kipub kohalik atmosfäär ja koloriit kuhugi ära kaduma, ja hinnad paratamatult tõusma, nii et ei saa enam arugi, kas oled Aafrikas või mitte. Niisiis peatusime lõunaosas nii kaua kui vajalik ja nii lühidalt kui võimalik.

(veel …)