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Alice Springs on kuulus eelkõige oma asukoha poolest – Austraalia südames, kaugel suurematest asustatud punktidest (ega ta ise oma 30 000 elanikuga ka teab mis metropol pole), kuid lähedal siinsele suurimale vaatamisväärsusele – suurele liivakivimürakale, mida põlisrahvad kutsuvad Uluru’ks. Selle ümber on sadade tuhandete ruutkilomeetrite viisi kõrbemaastikke, kus elutingimused on nii rasked, et isegi linnud ei laula. Ühesõnaga – Alice Springs asub pärapõrgus.

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Air Berlini äpardusega meil saaga ei lõppenud. Kui olime pühapäeva varahommikul lõpuks Vancouverist Düsseldorfi jõudnud, helistasin kohe Air Balticule ning palusin broneerida kohad  sama päeva õhtul väljuvatele lendudele Hamburg-Riia-Tallinn (Estonian Airi piletit ümber vahetada ei saanud, ning uus pilet oleks olnud tunduvalt kallim, Air Baltic pakkus aga lendu küllaltki soodsalt). Tütarlaps teisel pool toru oli väga lahke ja abivalmis ning rääkis väga head inglise keelt, nii et see etapp läks raskusteta.

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Mõned päevad tagasi saabusime Mehhikosse, mis on meie jaoks viimane riik enne USA-sse jõudmist. Piiriületus oli väga konkreetne, ehkki koopiamasina vahet jooksmine võttis jälle parajalt aega.

Esimese asjana võtsime Yucatáni poolsaarel ette teekonna Chichén Itzásse, maiade ühte tuntumasse arheoloogilisse leiupaika. Arhitektuuriliselt on see väga mitmekesine – peale sümboliks saanud püramiidide leiab sealt ka igasugu muid struktuure, sealhulgas rohkelt sambaid. Huvitav on mõelda, mismoodi maailma eri paigus asunud iidsed tsivilisatsioonid on oma ehituskultuuris tulnud väga sarnastele lahendustele – sambaid oleme näinud ju nii Kreekas kui Iraanis, kuulsas Persepolises. Ja nüüd siin ka!

(veel …)

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Viimaste päevade märksõnadeks võiks olla Costa Ricas rehvi sattunud nael, korrumpeerunud liikluspolitseinik, Ometepe saar Nicaraguas ja jõudmine Granadasse, järjekordsesse koloniaallinna.

Costa Rica ühest väiksemat sorti rannalinnast Jacóst minema sõitma hakates avastas Margus, et tagarehv on kummaliselt tühi.

(veel …)

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Räägiks lühidalt ühest positiivsest ja ühest negatiivsest kogemusest, mis meil on rahvusvaheliste firmadega tekkinud ning mis võiks ehk teistele pikaajalistele matkajatele huvi pakkuda.

Positiivselt nimetaks ära World Nomads’i, kellelt oleme ostnud tervisekindlustuse. Odav see muidugi pole, viimati maksime poole aasta eest kummagi eest 7000 EEK. Samas, nagu kusagil varem juba vist kirjutasime, ei ole taolise ettevõtmise jaoks sobivat firmat väga lihtne leida. Küll peab poliisi tingimuste kohaselt reis lõppema maksimaalselt aasta jooksul, küll leitakse, et mootorrattaga sõitmine on motosport ning seda leping ei kata. Paljud edumeelsemaid tingimusi pakkuvad kindlustusfirmad kindlustavad ainult USA või Ühendkuningriigi kodanikke.

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Pärast kaht siinveedetud nädalat jõudis eile kätte aeg oma kompsud kokku pakkida ning end jälle teele asutada. Kui mõned erandjuhud välja arvata, on lahkumine alati raske. Sest eneselegi märkamatult hakkad juuri ajama, sätid asjad oma käe järgi. Ja mugavused! Inimene harjub mugavustega nii kergesti!

Kuid seekord tähendas see lisaks lahkuminekut sõpradest, keda me varem ei tundnudki, kuid kellega koos veedetud aeg oli üdini positiivne. Jah, minna oli raske, kuid minema pidi, sest… nii labane kui see ka ei tundu, on meil ju plaan ja eesmärk teha maakerale 1000 päevaga ring peale. Unistus, mille nimel sai mitu aastat tööd tehtud. Nüüd on see unistus elus.

(veel …)

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Kaugelt vaadates võiks ju arvata, et mis meil viga elada, muudkui reisime ja tšillime, ning majanduslangusest loeme ainult ajalehtedest. Tegelikult saime majanduslangust oma nahal tunda juba ammu enne, kui Eestist lahkusime. Nimelt kui oma ettevõtmisele toetajaid otsisime, vastas valdav osa neist suurtest ja edukatest Eesti ettevõtetest, kelle poole sponsorlustaotlusega pöördusime, eitavalt, tuues põhjenduseks just nimelt majanduslangust.
(veel …)

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Kariina käis vahepeal bussiga Mendozast Buenos Aireses, et ikka veel paranduses olev videokaamera ära tuua. Nagu karta oligi, polnud sellega vahepeal (st kahe kuu jooksul!) mitte midagi tehtud, nii et video seis on endiselt lahtine. St meil on jätkuvalt helita ja kuumusega hapuks minev videokaamera.

Meie Öhlinsi (ehk Ö) amort vajab hooldust ja armastust, eriti enne sõitu Boliiviasse, kus teeolud pidavat eriti halvad olema (mõni ütleb, et seal ei olegi teid). Pärast Carretera Australi ja Ruta 40-t näitab meie Ö pika puuga suuremat vastupidavust retsidivismile kui Wilbers. Praeguse seisuga on hüdraulilisest preloaderist lekkinud mõni tilk õli  – see juhtus külmas Ushuaias, kuid tagasi sooja tulles ei ole enam lekkinud. Üks liimitud tihendi kork on alla kukkunud, ilmselt tohutust vibratsioonist. Need on köki-möki probleemid, sest amort ise peab-toimib ja see on minuarust kõva sõna! Wilbers nägi mõnd rahulikult sõidetud džunglirada, head kruusa ja muidu keskmiselt halbasid asfaltteid, mida peaks minuarust iga amort (vähemalt esimesed 10 000km) kannatama, aga Wilbers “kollapseerus” nende olude all, olgugi, et tal oli eeliseks kõvem vedru (Ö on näiteks standardvedruga). 

Muide, Wilbers on meil kohvris igaks juhuks tagavaraks kohvripõhjas kaasas ja peale mõnd nädalat seal olemist võtsin ta ükspäev välja ja ohhoo – isegi seistes on ta lekkima hakanud, ja seda pärast 4-t või 5-t kapitaalremonti. Midagi on tõsiselt mäda selle Wilbersiga ja loodan ta Wilbersisse tagasi saata, lihtsalt kingin selle neile tagasi (seda ei müüks vist isegi oma suurimale vaenlasele 🙂 ), et nad ise asja üle natuke mõelda saaks. Võibolla saan selle võimaluse Santiagos.

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On olemas riisiraketid (jaapani rattad), pastaraketid (itaalia rattad), mõned erinevad raketid veel ja siis veel hapukapsaraketid (saksa rattad). Meil on see viimane. Sedasorti rakettide olemasolust ei teata siin Lõuna-Ameerikas just palju ja ilmselt sellepärast ei teata palju ka vajalikest tööriistadest ja võtetest. See iselomustab hästi viimast kolme päeva, mille jooksul mööda kogu Perito Moreno küla eri tööriistade järgi jooksnud olen, tahtes ise abi, ent kokkuvõttes hoopis teistele (eelnevatest valdkondadest) uusi asju õpetanud.

(veel …)

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Torres del Paine rahvuspark ning Perito Moreno nimeline liustik nähtud, otsustasime teel põhja suunas teha peateelt veel üks kõrvalepõige – et ära näha kuulus Fitz Roy mägi. Selleks pöörasime taas läände, teele El Chaltén’i suunas. Ees ootas meid kõige hullem torm, mida kunagi näinud oleme. Mida rohkem lääne suunas, seda süngemaks muutus taevas ning seda rohkem hakkas vihma sadama. Muidu niigi tugev külgtuul muutus aina pöörasemaks, nii et kohati oli tõsiseid raskusi õigel sõidurajal püsimisega. (veel …)