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Peale vulkaanide on Jaaval muudki. Saarel, kus elab tuhat inimest ruutkilomeetri kohta, kui saarele mahub üle 130 miljoni inimese, ei saa märkamata jääda inimtegevuse jäljed, ja seda kogu oma ettekujuteldavas mitmekesisuses.

Mõelda vaid, tuhat inimest ruutkilomeetril! Tegelikult, nagu varasemalt juba mainisime, leidub isegi siin kohti, kus inimesed ei ela üksteise kukil. Mägitee on meid viinud läbi vaiksete, tagasihoidlike külade, kus aeg näib tiksuvat hoopis teises rütmis kui muidu. Inimesed on lihtsamad, rahulikumad, ei torma välismaalasi silmates kohe küsima “Where you come from?”, “Where you go?”.

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Darwinis veedetud aeg möödus suure higistamise tähe all. Alla +30° C langes temperatuur vaid öösiti, ning päevasel ajal oli stabiilselt üle +35° C rauas – tipphetkedel kiskus vägisi juba +40° C poole. Tegelikult on nii, et teatud temperatuurist edasi pole enam suurt vahet, kas on viis kraadi rohkem või vähem – põhjamaalase jaoks on niikuinii palav.

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Olles jõudnud Darwinisse, Põhjaterritooriumi pealinna, ei olnud enam mingit lõõgastumist, vaid asusime koheselt organiseerima tsikli transporti Ida-Timorisse (paljud ilmselt küsivad, et mis asi see veel on, kuid loodetavasti oskame sellele küsimusele varsti ka vastata – ega me isegi ei tea sellest praeguseks suurt palju rohkem kui seda, et tegemist on üsna värskelt iseseisvuse saavutanud riigiga, mis veel üsna hiljuti oli sõjas Indoneesiaga ning jagab nüüd viimasega Timori saart, olles ise pool sellest).

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Enne idüllilisest Broome’ist lahkumist sai meile selgeks, et oleksime ka üksikul palmisaarel võimelised ellu jääma. Kui lähedalasuva palmi otsast potsatas maha üks kookos, usaldasime lihtsalt oma instinkte ning asusime seda koorima.

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Perth (kuhu me tegelikult ei läinud, sest meelde ei tulnud ühtegi põhjust, miks peaks minema) selja taga, kiskus meid ikka rannaäärsete teede poole, sest mõtlesime, et “äkki ikka midagi näeb”. No ei näinud ikka suurt midagi, kuid selle asemel ootasid ees mõned liivased üllatused.

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Kui Kalgoorlie’st lõunasse põrutades meid järsku tee ääres üha kõrgemad puud tervitasid, oli ikka üpris kummaline tunne küll – nii pikalt olime tiirutanud mööda kõrbemaastikke, et pähe ei tahtnud enam ära mahtuda mõte sellest, et Austraalias võiks peale punaste väljade veel midagi muud olla. Kuid võta näpust!

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Siin üks väike videolõik meie igapäevarutiinist, teeleasumisest ja mõtetest, mis sel ajal peas tiirlemas. Ühtlasi näitab see video üht väga suurt ja eluohtlikku viga, mis sai sel hommikul tehtud:

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Ei jõudnudki väga pikalt põhja suunas uhada – tee, mis peaks Austraaliale ringi peale tegema ning mis läheb läbi kõigist suurtest linnadest, osutus olema sama liiklustihe kui Tallinn-Tartu maantee esimesed mõnikümmend kilomeetrit reedeti pärast tööpäeva lõppu. Pole vist vaja põhjalikumalt seletadagi, miks sedasorti sõitmine eriti rõõmu ei paku. Pealegi selgus üsna varsti, et tee, mis teoreetiliselt võiks pakkuda kenasid vaateid Vaiksele ookeanile, on ehitatud rannast siiski nii piisavalt kaugele, et vaadetest võib vaid unistada – enamasti jääb peatee ja ookeani vahele paarkümmend kilomeetrit ning pärast ookeani äranägemist tuleb tuldud teed tagasi minna, sest mingeid rannaäärseid teid pole. Ja üleüldse näivad kõik rannaäärsed paigad olevat ehitatud kuurortideks, kus patseerivad ainult turistid, rikkad ja ilusad, mistõttu neist vähestest kohtadest, mida meie Lonely Planet taevani kiidab ning millesse sattusime, tulime kiiremas korras tulema. Ei ole ikka meie teema.

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Üleeile oli siis lõpuks see päev, kui oma asjad pakkisime ning Dorothyle ja Raulile head aega ütlesime.

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Mida lähemale meie ekspeditsiooni uue etapi, st idapoolkera algus nihkub, seda harvemini põikavad mõtted tagasi, sellele mis on olnud, ning seda tihedamini leiame end mängimas mõtetega sellest, mis meid ees ootab. Enne, kui ees ootavate riikidega seotud ootused ja muremõtted meid täiesti endasse haaravad, on praegu, nädal enne seikluse jätku, vast hea aeg möödunule heita veel üks pilk. Selline kokkuvõtlik – mitte liialt pikk ega põhjalikult analüüsiv – asjadele, mis on köitnud, ning mõtetele, mis on tekkinud.

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