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Täna külastasime Bogotás kullamuuseumi. Tuli välja igati vahva käik selles mõttes, et rahvast oli vähe ja muuseum ise väga hästi organiseeritud – lubati ilma välguta pilti teha ja puha. Kolumbuse-eelne Lõuna-Ameerika ajalugu, mida ka see muuseum suuresti eksponeerib, on minu meelest ülihuvitav nähtus. Esimese maitse sain sellest suhu Santiagos, Tšiilis, kus käisime Kolumbuse-eelse kunstile pühendatud muuseumis. Mina, kes ma Euroopa kunstisaalides ringi käies tavaliselt sõna otseses mõttes magama jään, jälgin selle kunagi täielikult isoleeritud maailmaosa kardinaalselt erinevat ja inspireerivat kunsti küll suure huviga.

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Kel huvi, siis meie Lõuna-Ameerika vahekõkkuvõtet saab lugeda äsja ilmunud GoDiscoveris.

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Bogotá lähistel saime üle pika aja taas kokku eestlastega, seekord küll täiesti planeeritult – varasemast olid meil olemas ühe Eesti-Colombia segapere kontaktid, kelle juures siis juba hea mitu päeva tagasi maandusime. Eve ja Ernesto koos toredate laste Lena ja Rafaeliga võtsid meid kirjeldamatult hästi vastu, ehkki meie varasem kokkupuude nendega piirdus vaid lühida meilivahetusega. On ju üks asi puhaste linadega voodi ja soe dušš, hoopis teine aga see, kuidas sul tekib tunne, justkui oleksid tõesti oodatud – ja siin on tõesti tunne, nagu oleksime kodus.

Konkreetsemat plaani selles osas, kui pikaks ajaks me siia jääme, meil tollal polnud, sest eelkõige pidi see sõltuma sellest, millal kõik tegemist vajavad asjad tehtud saavad. Olulisemateks siis näiteks uue Brasiilia viisa taotlemine, marutaudi kordussüstide saamine ning uute rehvide ostmine. Kuna meie saabumise ajal oli aga juba käimas lihavõttenädal, tähendas see igasugu asjade edasilükkumist, ja nii peaks me passid viisadega kätte saama algava nädala neljapäeval. Niisiis ka vaktsineerida kavatseme end tuleval nädalal. Rehvidega on lugu aga keerulisem – kuna me aeg-ajalt ka offroadi harrastame, vajame ka vastavaid rehve, kuid siin on nende leidmisega raskusi – meie ratta mõõdule on saada peaasjalikult asfaldile mõeldud “kummi”. Öeldakse aga ju, et kes otsib, see leiab, nii et me ei ole veel lootust kaotanud.

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5. aprillil ületasime Colombia (Kolumbia) piiri. Kui päris aus olla, siis selle riigiga seoses oli igasugu hirme ja ärevust omajagu rohkem kui seoses ühegi teise Lõuna-Ameerika riigiga – käib siin ju omamoodi kodusõda, millest küll ainult mööda peateid liikudes arugi ei pidavat saama. Seoses lihavõttenädala lähenemisega oli peateid aga turvama pandud küllaltki palju politsenikke ja sõjaväelasi, kuna see on selline aeg, kus inimesed liiguvad riigis rohkem ringi. Ehkki suur reede on alles homme, pandi kõik ametiasutused juba tänasest kinni – siin sügavalt katoliiklikus riigis võetakse usupühasid ikka täie tõsidusega 😉

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Ecuadori keskosa mägikülamaastikest väsinuna maandusime ööl enne Quitosse jõudmist olude (st pimeduse) sunnil teeäärses motellis. Nagu näiteks Brasiiliaski, on Ecuadoris küllaga selliseid majutuskohti, mis rendivad tube välja ka mõne tunni kaupa. Kohe me aru ei saanud, et oleme taolisse kohta sattunud, sest tavaliselt on neil kõrge müür ümber (et keegi juhuslikult möödudes seal parkivat abikaasa numbrimärgiga autot ära ei tunneks), kuid sellel polnud. Kord sattusime Brasiilas, jällegi olude sunnil, ööbima “Motel Miami’sse” – seal oli ikka nagu kord ja kohus, peegel laes, telekast tuli ainult pornot ning sisse sai lülitada neoonvalgust (igal juhul oli seal ööbimine pisut veider elamus!). Siin aga oli tuba nagu tuba ikka, ainult et öökapil oli preservatiiv ja seinal nupp kirjaga “muusika”. Paraku ei tulnud sealt ei meeleolumuusikat, rumbat ega salsat. Aga õnneks oli ka piisavalt vaikne 😉

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Riobambast, täiesti tipp-topp korras, ent pisut igavast linnast, otsustasime vaatama sõita Ecuadori väidetavalt ühte kaunimaid paiku, ehk Quilotoa laguuni. Ehkki sõit sinna toimus mööda küllaltki väikest teed ning läbi mägisema piirkonna, oli just seal selgelt näha, kuidas Ecuador on Lõuna-Ameerika kõige tihedamalt asustatud riik (väidetavalt 45 inimest ruutkilomeetri kohta) – asustus oli igal pool, majad mäenõlvadele laiali puistatud.

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Panin kokku väikese videomaterjali Peruust:

“HQ” nupp videopleieri akna all mängib videot paremas kvaliteedis (kel parem internetiühendus).

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Peruu tuntuima turismimagneti, Machu Picchu, jätsime pärast pikka kaalumist vahele. Mingit erilist tungi sinna minna polnud niikuinii, ning kui olime kuulnud, milliseid summasid tahab sinna ainsa firmana viiv Peru Rail rongipileti eest (odavaim üheotsapilet Cuscost 48 USD), ning millised turistihordid sealt eest leiab, ei olnud tahtmist enam pea-aegu üldse. Marguse visalt taanduv bronhiit ka veel lisaks – vihmaperioodil külmades kõrgustes higistada oleks vist liig.

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Pärast La Pazi maandusime kaheks päevaks Copacabanas, Titicaca järve ääres. Tee sinna oli päris kena ning sisaldas Titicaca ja Huynaymarca järve vahelise väina ületust.

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Täna saame vist lõpuks liikuma La Pazist Copacabana poole. Kinni jäime siia ennekõike selletõttu, et mul otsustas pärast vaktsiinisüsti palavik kallale tulla, mis mitu päeva taanduda ei tahtnud.
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