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MacLeodGanjist sai meil üsna kiiresti küll. Mingi hetkeni on turistidele suunatus mõnus (või vähemalt lohutav), kuid sealt edasi on tülpimus kiire tekkima. Lõppude lõpuks ei reisi me ju selleks, et teha tutvust teiste turistidega, vaid ikka kohalike oludega. Siiani oleme liikunud juba ammu sisse tallatud radadel (ning mis seal salata, näinud maailmakuulsaid pilte India elust). Nüüd päramine aeg oma trajektoorist veidi hälbida.

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Kõik ei ole veel kadunud. Uus adapter jõudis kohale, ning isegi töötab. Elagu!

Oodates leidsime, et Manali on küllaltki hea koht aja surnukslöömiseks. Ehkki siin suurt midagi teha ei ole, on õhk värske ning vaated vägevad. Mida rohkem põhja poole, seda vägevamaks need muutuvad. Seepärast võtsime ühel päeval ette sõidu siinsamas lähedal, umbes viiekümne kilomeetri kaugusel asuvale Rohtangi kurule.

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Akhade küla Laoses andis nii võimsa emotsionaalse laengu, et nüüd, kui olime jõudnud Taisse, ei saanud kuidagi vastu panna kiusatusele mägirahvaste vallas veel midagi uut avastada. Käsitsi joonistatud kaart näpus, istusime taas tsikli selga ning põrutasime tundmatusse.

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Põhja-Laose kultuurimaastikku ilmestavad mitmed siin elavad mägihõimud. Valitsusele on nad muidugi pinnuks silmas – olles pärit kes Hiinast, kes Burmast, kes kusagilt mujalt, ning olles endaga kaasa toonud oma kultuuri ja oma religiooni, kohalikku ühiskonda nad hästi integreeruda ei taha. Üheks selliseks hõimuks on akhad, kes arvatakse olevat Tiibeti kandist ning keda Burma, Hiina, Laose ja Tai peale kokku on loendatud pea poole miljoni jagu.

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…kui tuhat sõna.

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Laose kuulsad viletsad teed on nüüd avastatud ja ära proovitud. Jälle suutsime ära eksida tee-ehitustöödele, mis meie Gessule üldse armu ei andnud, ning millele eelnes kilomeetrite viisi muust maailmast eraldatud külade vahelisi pinnaseteid ning ootamatult rohkelt jõeületusi.

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Kambodža-Laose piiriületus toimus ilma suuremate vahejuhtumiteta. Olime juba ette teadlikud sellest, et piiriametnikud selles konkreetses piiripunktis on rahamaiad, nii et kui Kambodža migratsiooniametnik meilt templi löömise eest passi teeseldud ükskõiksusega 1 USD küsis, ei hakanud me üllatust teesklema. Küsisime hoopis, kas vastutasuks kviitungit ka saab. Ametnikud vahetasid omavahel pilke, ning templid said passi löödud ilma raha välgutamata.

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Seekordne video pisut parema lahutusvõimega, nii et kellel netiühendus kannatab, see klikaku videoakna all olevat nupukest, mis ta “480p” peale lülitab ja siis korra klõpsaku seda kõrval olevat laiali näitavate noolekeste nuppu, et üle ekraani suuremat videot vaadata.

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Bangkokist sai lõppude lõpuks villand. Oli hea meel sellest liiklushullarist välja saada, ja veel enam selle üle, et väljasõit läks suhteliselt sujuvalt. Kurjad keeled räägivad, et Bangkoki liikluses sureb iga 15 minuti tagant üks rolleri- või motomees, nii et kui kiirtee kord juba rehvide all, siis ei tahtnud muud kui sellest kiiresti eemalduda, kuni piir Kambodžaga tervitas.

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Lõigukesi Samosiri saarelt Toba järvel:

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