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Hakkasin mõtlema, et viimasel ajal me muust nagu ei kirjutagi kui igasugu jamadest. Ometi on siin nii palju muud. Kirjutaks siis toidust – sellest, mida sööme.

Kui me polnud veel kodunt lahkunud, olin veidi mures selle pärast, kuidas mõjutab keha pikaajaline reisitoidul olemine – miskipärast kujutasin meid ette ohjeldamatult priimusel toitu keetmas, ning sestap sai kaasa pakitud ka suur karbitäis vitamiine – juhuks kui söök peaks liiga ühekülgne olema. Tegelikkus on loomulikult teistsugune – ehk tuleb see sellest, et (veel …)

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Margus avastab, et tema sylearvuti kuvar ei toota ning viib arvuti Apple-i edasimyyjale Buenos Aireses kontrollimiseks. Edasimyyja teatab, et viga on videokaardis ning et selle v2ljavahetamine l2heb maksma 1000 USD. Javier teatab Margusele kahetsusega, et keevitus, mis amordile tehti, hakkas surve all lekkima. Margus ja Kariina on kaotmas lootust j6uda Buenos Airesest tuhande kilomeetri kaugusel Viedmas toimuvale motomatkajate kokkutulekule, kui saabub teade juba pikemat aega jalaluumurru t6ttu Buenos Aireses peatuvalt ning karkudel liikuvalt sakslaselt, Danielilt. Kariina ja Margus s6idavad kokkutulekule koos Danieliga viimase Land Roveris. Teel Viedmasse l2bitakse mitmeid politsei- ja sanitaarkontrollpunkte. J2rgnevate p2evade tipphetkedeks on meril6vikoloonia kylastus ning s6itmine liivaluidetel, ning loomulikult iga6htune grillimine. Kariina avastab, et Argentinas viibimine on p6hjustanud mao v2ljavenimise, mist6ttu ka p2rast ohjeldamatut lihasoomist ei saa k6ht enam ylem22ra t2is. Teisip2eval alustatakse tagasis6itu Buenos Airesesse, kuhu j6utakse kolmap2eval.

J2rgmises osas:

Kas amort saab l6puks parandatud?

Mida otsustab Margus teha sylearvutiga?

Kas Kariina ja Margus saavad Buenos Airesest minema?

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No nii… mõte lasta amort uuesti Buenos Aireses hooldada lõppes sellega, et algselt pidanuks amort hooldatud saama läinud reedel, siis lükkus see edasi esmaspäevale, siis teisipäevale ehk tänasesse… Täna tõi Xavier amordi ülemise osa meile kurva näoga tagasi ja ütles, et asjad on kehvasti.

(veel …)

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Buenos Aires näib olevat selline koht, kust kuidagi minema ei saa. Nii ei ole see mitte ainult meil – siin, Dakar Motos’is on juba mõnda aega “kinni” ühed Walesi matkasellid, kellest üks ootab kiigelaagreid, siis juba meie vana tuttav itaallanna, Miriam, kes on hädas radiaatoriga ning kelle fotokaamera on tähtajatult paranduses. Lisaks on siit lähipäevadel läbi käinud üks USA kodanik, üks paar Saksamaalt, üks paar Šveitsist ning eilsest on siin külas juba aastaid ringi rändavad austraallased (nende BMW tsikkel on sõitnud üle 650 000 km!). Rahvusvaheline seltskond infot vahetamas:

(veel …)

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Üleeile võis meid näha naasmas Buenos Airesesse, Dakar Motos’i töökotta, kus veedame taas mõned päevad, et enne külma lõuna poole suundumist veel kord natuke oma konte soojendada (peame siiski ettevaatlikud olema, sest siin hakkab vist vaikselt suvi kätte jõudma, ning tänaseks lubatakse 35 soojakraadi), ning mis veel tähtsam – mõnede oluliste küsimustega tegeleda, näiteks:

• lasta kannatada saanud tagaamordile igaks juhuks hooldus teha (tegemisel – saame homme kätte)
• vahetada esipiduriklotsid (tuleb veel kusagilt sebida, näib defitsiitne kaup olevat)
• vahetada õlid (tehtud)
• lasta videokaamera ära parandada (tegemisel – homme saame vastuse, kas viga on kohapeal parandatav – kui ei, siis oleme püsti hädas; ametlikult ei impordita Argentinasse Canoni HD-kaameraid, nii et kui on tõsisem viga, siis ei osata seda kohapeal ka parandada)
• osta uus digifotokas (suhtlesime Canoni Argentina esindusega, kust saime teada, et meie rändama läinud fotoka mudelit ei olegi Argentinas saada, sest see on vana mudel, kuid eile käisime linna peal ja avastasime ühe kvartali jagu kasutatud tehnika poode, kus meie soovitavat Canon A720-t ei ole, küll aga on veidi vanemat A710-t, nii et homme lähme teeme ilmselt ostu ära)
• pesta hunnik pesu (tehtud – lasime ühe alumiiniumkohvritest vett täis, panime pesupulbrit ka, ning nüüd kuivab väljas pikk nööritäis puhast pesu – mmm… siiani pesime ju kõik asjad hotellide kraanikausis ning hotelliseebiga)
• kirjutada reisikirja (ma ei mäletagi enam, millal me oma eraotstarbelist reisikirja täiendasime, kuid ometi on ju oluline seda teha, sest kes see paari aasta pärast enam muidu mäletab, kes, mis, kus ja mida tegi – varsti võtan ette)
• pidada edasise teekonna osas plaani (ise asi, kui mõttekas see on, sest plaanid ju muutuvad niikuinii – tegeleme jooksvalt).

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Jõudsime Punta del Diablosse Uruguai idarannikul.

Sõit sinnani viis läbi soise Brasiilia madalmaa, mis oli omaette huvitav. (veel …)

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Kes oleks arvanud, et napp nädal pärast Salvadori kõrvetavat päikest satume taas märgadesse, kõledatesse tingimustesse, kuid nii see on. Viimased kaks sõidupäeva on möödunud tihedas vihmasajus Uruguai poole liikudes – nähtavus on olnud väga halb (seda enam, et siinsetel autojuhtidel ei ole kombeks tuledega sõita) ning teed sadade kilomeetrite vältel remondis või niisama auklikud. Pikapeale on suur vesi hakanud ka (spetsiaalsest vihma-) sõiduvarustusest läbi imbuma – kui eile teeäärses söögikohas lõunapausiks peatusime, loksus meil mõlemal saabastes vesi, tagumikud olid märjad, samuti käed ja pead, Margusel oli vesi ka krae vahelt sisse tunginud, nii et võib öelda, et olime ikka täitsa märjad. Söögikoht oli iseteeninduslik, mis tähendab, et igaüks võib endale laduda marmiidist seda, mida hing ihkab. Haaran siis mina lusika ja sealsamas lasen sellel tagasi kukkuda.
Minu järel olevad mammid omavahel: “Ei tea mis nüüd juhtus?”
Mina: “Eeeellllllekter!”. Marmiit on voolu all.
Mammid omavahel: “Nojah, vaata, ta vaeseke on ju läbimärg.”
Üks mammidest mulle: “Ma aitan sind, näita, mida sa süüa tahad”.

Mammid aitavad mul taldriku täis laduda. Nii me siis söönuks saime, et edasi vihma trotsida. Eilseks õhtupoolikuks pöörasime ookeani äärest sisemaa poole, ning oh imet! päike tuli välja. Ootame ärevusega tänaseid arenguid ilma osas, ja loodame olla õhtuks Uruguais.

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Tee Salvadorist lõuna suunas viis meid läbi Ida-Brasiilia vaesemate piirkondade – ilmselgelt olid näha erinevused võrreldes jõukama kaevanduspiirkonna Minas Gerais’iga – ei olnud seda kuulsat koloniaalarhitektuuri, vaid haigutavate akendega telliskivikastid, jätkuvalt domineerimas must nahavärv. Et rannikuäärne on madalam ja niiskem, oli sõit päris väsitav – valitses paras saun. Seda suurem oli meie heameel GPS-i juhatusel “peateelt” väiksemale, mägisemal alal kulgevale teele pöörata – kohe hakkas mõnusam.

Mõned telgist lindistatud helifoonid kusagil Santa Teresa kandis (Espyrito Santo osariik) mägede vahel:

Õhtu:

[audio:http://yhelteljel.ee/audio/Santa_Teresa_telk_6htu.mp3]

Öö:

[audio:http://yhelteljel.ee/audio/Santa_Teresa_telk_oo.mp3]

Hommik (vihm):

[audio:http://yhelteljel.ee/audio/Santa_Teresa_telk_hommik.mp3]

Olime lasknud GPS-il endale joonistada optimaalse tee tagasi Paraty’sse (et enne pikka sõitu Brasiiliast välja pisut lõõgastuda – nimelt sattusime eelmisel korral siin suurepärasesse külalistemajja, Pousada Guaraná‘sse – soovitame soojalt, see on superluks), kuid seda me ei teadnud, et  GPS-il on suured ambitsioonid. Mingil hetkel avastasime end tõelisest mudamülkast – tagasi ei söandanud minna, liiga pikk maa oli juba tuldud, ja nii me läbi sopa veeresime – õnneks vaid kümmekond kilomeetrit, aga ütleme nii, et adrenaliini jagus. Ja tundsime puudust oma headest Heidenau rehvidest – all on Michelin Anakee puhta asfaldi suunitlusega rehv, mis mudas on nullilähedase haardega.

(veel …)

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Õhtul Salvadori sisse sõites (tsikkel pikapi kastis) oli tunne, justkui viibiks Aafrikas. Kohutavalt palav oli, seda muidugi, kuid mitte seepärast. Pigem olid need värvid ja arhitektuur, või õigemini selle puudumine – viimistlemata majakarbid üksteise otsa kuhjumas, millel isegi aknaid ei ole ees – igaüks ise moodi, pisut nagu tondilossid. Musta ja veel mustemat värvi inimesed, oma igapäevastes toimetustes. Palmid, teistsugused kui need, mida mujal Brasiilias näinud oleme. Ja see kõik oivalise päikeseloojangu taustal…

Veetsime kaks ööd hotellitoas, mille aknast avanes lummav vaade ookeanile, ning kust oli mõnus rannapromenaadil askeldavaid inimesi jälgida. Jagame seda ka teiega:

Muide, kui hakata mõtlema meie katki/rikki läinud asjadele, siis ilmneb tõsiasi, et amort, rehv, videokaamera ja mobiiltelefon ütlesid kõik üles Bahia osariigis. Ilmselt peab siin mustade kantsis olema tegemist mingitsorti afromaagiaga, sest Salvadori jõudes hakkas videokaamera jälle osaliselt tööle (pilt on, heli pole ja töötab kuni soojaks läheb, siis hangub) – tänu sellele ka ülalolev videolõik; ning pärast Salvadorist lahkumist otsustas taas tööle hakata minu mobiil. Rehv on uus, ja amort pole rohkem lekkinud – nii et võib vist öelda, et suurem ebaõnn on meile selja pööranud 🙂 Ainult videokaamera vajab veel parandamist, ja fotokaamera ostmist. Kaalume nüüd taas São Paulosse minekut, sest kolm on ju kohtuseadus. Pealegi on see üks hiiglama suur linn ja kui seal on maailma suurim välisjaapanlaste kogukond, siis seal peab ju ometi mingi Canoni esindus olema, et saaksime oma kaameraasjad aetud.

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Üleeile hommikul startisime Vitoria da Conquistast edasi põhja suunas, et ära näha Chapada Diamantina rahvuspark – olime ometi nii kaugele tulnud, et lihtsalt tagasi pöörata tundus veider, mis sest, et veel ei olnud selge, mis seisus amort pärast teistkordset parandamist täpselt on. Umbes saja kilomeetri pärast peatusime hetkeks, et seda kontrollida. Ikka pisut õline! Otsustasime siiski riskida ja edasi sõita, ning pärast lummavate vaadetega mägiteid ja uniseid mägikülasid olime rahvuspargis kohal. (veel …)