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Ecuadori keskosa mägikülamaastikest väsinuna maandusime ööl enne Quitosse jõudmist olude (st pimeduse) sunnil teeäärses motellis. Nagu näiteks Brasiiliaski, on Ecuadoris küllaga selliseid majutuskohti, mis rendivad tube välja ka mõne tunni kaupa. Kohe me aru ei saanud, et oleme taolisse kohta sattunud, sest tavaliselt on neil kõrge müür ümber (et keegi juhuslikult möödudes seal parkivat abikaasa numbrimärgiga autot ära ei tunneks), kuid sellel polnud. Kord sattusime Brasiilas, jällegi olude sunnil, ööbima “Motel Miami’sse” – seal oli ikka nagu kord ja kohus, peegel laes, telekast tuli ainult pornot ning sisse sai lülitada neoonvalgust (igal juhul oli seal ööbimine pisut veider elamus!). Siin aga oli tuba nagu tuba ikka, ainult et öökapil oli preservatiiv ja seinal nupp kirjaga “muusika”. Paraku ei tulnud sealt ei meeleolumuusikat, rumbat ega salsat. Aga õnneks oli ka piisavalt vaikne 😉

(veel …)

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Panin kokku väikese videomaterjali Peruust:

“HQ” nupp videopleieri akna all mängib videot paremas kvaliteedis (kel parem internetiühendus).

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Siin voodis ennast ravides panin kokku väikese videomaterjali Boliivia inimestest, elust-olust. Taustaks olev lugu on hetkel seal kõva hitt, vähemasti meie kuulsime seda kõikjal – mööduvatest autodest, söögikohtades, isegi tänaval kõndivate inimeste käes olevatest raadiotest:

“HQ” nupp akna all mängib videot paremas kvaliteedis.

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Siin video Boliivia kõrgustikest, enne veel kui mul enesetunne päris halvaks läks:

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Viimastel päevadel on meie teekond kulgenud kas kõrbe ja ookeani piiril või suisa läbi kõrbe.

(veel …)

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Tagantjärele väike (fotokaga tehtud) videolõik matkajate igapäevaelust:

Esimese telkimiskoha koordinaadid: S 42° 06,217′ W 63° 44, 155′, teisel S 53° 13,363′ W 69° 14,268′

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Õhtul Salvadori sisse sõites (tsikkel pikapi kastis) oli tunne, justkui viibiks Aafrikas. Kohutavalt palav oli, seda muidugi, kuid mitte seepärast. Pigem olid need värvid ja arhitektuur, või õigemini selle puudumine – viimistlemata majakarbid üksteise otsa kuhjumas, millel isegi aknaid ei ole ees – igaüks ise moodi, pisut nagu tondilossid. Musta ja veel mustemat värvi inimesed, oma igapäevastes toimetustes. Palmid, teistsugused kui need, mida mujal Brasiilias näinud oleme. Ja see kõik oivalise päikeseloojangu taustal…

Veetsime kaks ööd hotellitoas, mille aknast avanes lummav vaade ookeanile, ning kust oli mõnus rannapromenaadil askeldavaid inimesi jälgida. Jagame seda ka teiega:

Muide, kui hakata mõtlema meie katki/rikki läinud asjadele, siis ilmneb tõsiasi, et amort, rehv, videokaamera ja mobiiltelefon ütlesid kõik üles Bahia osariigis. Ilmselt peab siin mustade kantsis olema tegemist mingitsorti afromaagiaga, sest Salvadori jõudes hakkas videokaamera jälle osaliselt tööle (pilt on, heli pole ja töötab kuni soojaks läheb, siis hangub) – tänu sellele ka ülalolev videolõik; ning pärast Salvadorist lahkumist otsustas taas tööle hakata minu mobiil. Rehv on uus, ja amort pole rohkem lekkinud – nii et võib vist öelda, et suurem ebaõnn on meile selja pööranud 🙂 Ainult videokaamera vajab veel parandamist, ja fotokaamera ostmist. Kaalume nüüd taas São Paulosse minekut, sest kolm on ju kohtuseadus. Pealegi on see üks hiiglama suur linn ja kui seal on maailma suurim välisjaapanlaste kogukond, siis seal peab ju ometi mingi Canoni esindus olema, et saaksime oma kaameraasjad aetud.

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Riost (kolme suurimat ostukeskust läbi kammides) digifotokaamerat me siiski ei leidnud – oli üht-teist valikut küll, ent seda, mida soovisime, ei olnud – Margus vajab ju intervalomeetrit, mida vaid väga piiratud digiseebikarpidele juurde programmeerida saab (peab kaamera OP-süsteemi murdma). Mõningaid (suhteliselt kehva kvaliteediga) pilte teeb meil ka videokaamera, nii et otsustasime, et “augutäiteks” võib videokaameraga klõpsida, kuni selle õige leiame.

Rio de Janeirost lahkudes võtsime suuna põhja poole, et ära näha Lõuna-Ameerika musta kultuuri üks pealinnu, Salvador. (veel …)

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Siin Paraty’s 250 km Rio de Janeirost on suht hea netiühendusega pousada (meie mõistes külalistemaja). Kasutasime juhust üles panna video oma sõidust Ilhabela saarel, kus tegime saare keskelt läbi 4×4 raja. Loomulikult sõitsime kogu tee läbi kahekesi – raskemad osad mõlemad püsti olles – see on meie ise välja arendatud sõidutehnika ja toimib päris hästi, ka järsematel tõusudel ja langustel. Kahjuks polnud kedagi, kes meid korraga sõitmas filmiks. Päris saare teise otsa ei jõudnud, sest öösel oli sadanud, ja saare teine pool oli väga mudane (selline paks ja hästi kleepuv) ja väga järsk, alla oleks saanud, küll aga tagasi üles oleks üle 400 kg kaaluva rattaga, mille tagarehv küllaltki kulunud, olnud küsitav :). Korra sai korralikult ka külg maha pandud, üks kohver sai väikse mõlgi. Ilhabelal on säilinud hästi atlantiline vihmamets, ja seal oli tõesi super. Ühesõnaga palju muda ja higi, aga vaated olid vaeva väärt:

PS: YouTube’i kvaliteet pole just kõige parem. Kes veidi paremat kvaliteeti tahab, minge topeltklikiga sellelt videolt YouTube’i otselehele ja sealt videoakna alt valige võimalus “watch in high quality”.

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Meie muidu pisut mõrudaks muutunud meele teeb rõõmsamaks Brasiilia muusika, mis lausa põleb positiivsusest ja soojusest. Olgu see bossa, samba, jazz või kohati ka kohalik popp. Viimased paar päeva olemegi Ferandole ja Maraisale sisse süstinud n.ö. muusikapisiku, et nad juhataksid meid õigete artistide juurde. Asi lõppes sellega, et käisime kolmes kasutatud vinüülide poes ja saatsime kodu poole teele üle 5 kilogrammi jagu vinüülplaate 🙂 Siinsetel lettidel on (lääne inimese jaoks) haruldast muusikat, mida muidu olen piilunud eBay‘st, kus ühe rariteetsema plaadi hind on kohati 50-100 USA dollarit. Siit saab sama muusikat võileivahinna eest, ja mis peamine – vinüülil!

Jalutama läinud kaamerat taga nuttes sai vanast materjalist ja kohalikust helikillust kokku pandud väike abstraktsioon: