{"id":9879,"date":"2010-11-02T07:00:32","date_gmt":"2010-11-02T05:00:32","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/?p=9879"},"modified":"2010-11-01T18:31:16","modified_gmt":"2010-11-01T16:31:16","slug":"vooras","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/?p=9879","title":{"rendered":"V\u00f5\u00f5ras"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Sisenesime Jeemenisse piiripunktist, mis ei n\u00e4inud \u00fcldsegi v\u00e4lja nagu piiripunkt, vaid rohkem nagu suvaline jumala poolt unustatud k\u00fcla. Paar pudeneva krohviga putkat, generaator nende taga urisemas. Ei \u00fchtegi viidet tollile ega migratsioonile. M\u00f5ned kahtlased tegelased, n\u00e4pus kilekotid autode numbrim\u00e4rkidega. Kuhu olime sattunud?<\/p>\n

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P\u00e4rast tunnikest piiril olid meil asjad ometigi aetud – templid passis ning tsiklile isegi kohustuslik kindlustus ostetud ning v\u00f5isime alustada oma teekonda selles v\u00e4hetuntud riigis. Jeemen<\/a> on j\u00e4lle omajagu teistmoodi kui Omaan. Isegi mitte seep\u00e4rast, et arengutase on teine – Jeemen on Araabia poolsaare k\u00f5ige vaesem riik – vaid arhitektuur on m\u00e4rgatavalt teistsugune, ning inimesed nahav\u00e4rvilt m\u00e4rkimisv\u00e4\u00e4rselt tumedamad. Nagu Omaanis, torkab ka siin silma geneetiline mitmekesisus.<\/p>\n

Kui kuskil peatume, vaadatakse meid imestusega – Jeemeni idapoolsesse provintsi, Al Mahrasse ei satu just palju v\u00e4lismaalasi. Ma vist ei liialda, kui pakun, et enamus pole elu sees nii suurt mootorratast n\u00e4inud kui meie Gessu. Sestap pole \u00fcllatav, et kohalike esimeseks reaktsiooniks on v\u00f5\u00f5ristus, mis k\u00fcll kohe haihtub, kui neid araabiakeelse assalam aleikumiga tervitada.<\/p>\n

Kuid ikka on \u00f5hus natuke ebamusgavustunnet. V\u00f5ib-olla on asi taaskord m\u00f5istuse piire \u00fcletavas liikluskultuuris, mis tundub olevat sama mis Indias, v\u00f5i hullem veel. V\u00f5ika meis endis, kes me pole harjunud enda \u00fcmber nii palju mustanahalisi n\u00e4gema. Vaikset paranoiat sisendab omakorda ka see, et naised on k\u00f5ik niiv\u00f5rd kinni kaetud, et ainult silmad paistavad – katsu sa aru saada, mida inimene sinust arvab, kui sa talle \u00f5ieti otsagi ei saa vaadata!<\/p>\n

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Esimene suurem linn, Al Mukalla, osutus meeldivaks peatuspaigaks, kus j\u00e4lle kolmanda maailma atmosf\u00e4\u00e4riga samale lainele h\u00e4\u00e4lestuda. Natuke ligadi-logadi, natuke r\u00e4pane, kuid kui v\u00e4rvikas! Kui esimesest ehmatusest \u00fcle saada, siis t\u00e4itsa meeldib.<\/p>\n

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Ja lindistus samas kohast kell 4 \u00f6\u00f6sel – m\u00f5ni ehk m\u00f5tleb, et kas me koraanidega mitte liiale ei ole l\u00e4inud, kuid et siinne igap\u00e4evaelu on usuga ehk tihedamaltki l\u00e4bi p\u00f5imunud kui \u00fcheski teises islamiriigis mida oleme k\u00fclastanud, ning et kutse palvele kostab \u00fcle kanali olevast mosheest valjusti nii p\u00e4eval kui \u00f6\u00f6sel, siis ei saa sellest mitte v\u00e4lja teha – meeldib v\u00f5i ei meeldi.<\/p>\n[audio:Al_Mukalla.mp3|titles=Al Mukalla kella 3:45 \u00f6ine koraan unise mullaga]\n

Vaat’ et sama t\u00e4htis kui usk on Jeemenis kergelt narkootilise toimega taime, qati lehtede n\u00e4rimine. P\u00e4rastl\u00f5unal hakatakse lehti p\u00f5ske pistma ning p\u00e4ikeseloojangu ajaks on k\u00f5igil p\u00f5sed rohelisest purust nii punnis, et enam r\u00e4\u00e4kidagi ei saa. Mujal maailmas illegaalset qati pidavat siin pea igap\u00e4evaselt n\u00e4tsutama umbes 80% meestest. Jeemenis tarbitavast veest l\u00e4heb 40% qatiistanduste kastmiseks.<\/p>\n

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Sisenesime Jeemenisse piiripunktist, mis ei n\u00e4inud \u00fcldsegi v\u00e4lja nagu piiripunkt, vaid rohkem nagu suvaline jumala poolt unustatud k\u00fcla. Paar pudeneva krohviga putkat, generaator nende taga urisemas. Ei \u00fchtegi viidet tollile ega migratsioonile. M\u00f5ned kahtlased tegelased, n\u00e4pus kilekotid autode numbrim\u00e4rkidega. Kuhu olime sattunud?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[423],"tags":[132,1114,1137,128,133,123],"class_list":["post-9879","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-lahis-ida","tag-floora-ja-fauna","tag-inimesed","tag-jeemen","tag-linnad","tag-piiriuletus","tag-sook-ja-jook"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9879","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=9879"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9879\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":9969,"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/9879\/revisions\/9969"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=9879"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=9879"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=9879"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}