{"id":14659,"date":"2011-10-27T08:53:23","date_gmt":"2011-10-27T06:53:23","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/?p=14659"},"modified":"2011-10-27T08:53:23","modified_gmt":"2011-10-27T06:53:23","slug":"taevast-maa-peale-tagasi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/?p=14659","title":{"rendered":"Taevast maa peale tagasi"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7366_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Chefchaoueni t\u00e4navapilt\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7366_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"757\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Eks ta ole olnud natuke nagu muinasjutt v\u00f5i unen\u00e4gu, see kolmeaastane ekspeditsioon &#8211; eriti tagantj\u00e4rele vaadates &#8211; k\u00f5ik need pildid ja helid, kohtumised ja juhtumised\u2026<\/p>\n<p>Maroko oli m\u00e4\u00e4ratud olema selle unen\u00e4o l\u00f5ppvaatus &#8211; sellele j\u00e4rgnev Euroopa kui pika istumise j\u00e4rel toolist t\u00f5usmine, teatrisaalist v\u00e4ljumine, riiete lunastamine garderoobist, ning v\u00e4lja k\u00fclma ja tuule k\u00e4tte astumine, m\u00f5tted t\u00e4is v\u00e4rskeid, veel seedimata muljeid. Kuid enne veel tahtsime v\u00f5tta sellest etendusest viimast, salvestada oma m\u00e4lusse veel viimased eredad m\u00f5ttekillud, millest saada innustust ja inspiratsiooni.<\/p>\n<p><!--more--><\/p>\n<p>Kui Marrakechi sattusime poolkogemata, siis Fesi, \u00fcht paremini s\u00e4ilinud keskaegset mediinat maailmas, tahtsin ma kindlasti n\u00e4ha. Tuleb \u00f6elda, et m\u00f5iste &#8220;kindlasti&#8221; on viimaste aastatega oma t\u00e4henduses omajagu nihkunud, sest kunagi ei saa millelegi p\u00e4ris kindel olla &#8211; kui, siis ainult sellele, et kui sul on &#8220;kindel plaan&#8221;, siis l\u00e4hevad asjad risti vastupidi. Seep\u00e4rast katsun ma eelseisvate asjade suhtes erilisi ootusi mitte tekitada, ja \u00f5ige ongi, sest Fesi j\u00f5udes sai meile peagi selgeks, et mediina ehk vanalinn on liiklusele suletud ning mingit shanssi end koos tsikliga j\u00e4lle m\u00f5nesse odavasse k\u00fclalistemajja parkida ning sihitult m\u00f6\u00f6da t\u00e4navate lab\u00fcrinti ringi uidata (nagu me Marrakechis tegime) ei ole.<\/p>\n<p>Juba Fesis olles ei saanud sealt muidugi niisama minema uhada, nii et ei j\u00e4\u00e4nud \u00fcle muud, kui et valida konkreetsed kohad, mida n\u00e4ha tahame, ning tsikkel linna \u00e4\u00e4res parklas, need kohad l\u00e4bi k\u00e4ia. \u00dcheks selliseks kohaks on Fesi nahav\u00e4rvimist\u00f6\u00f6kojad, mis on elamus nii n\u00e4gemis- kui haistmismeeltele, loomanahad suurtes v\u00e4rviveemahutites ligunemas ning katustel p\u00e4ikese k\u00e4es kuivamas.<\/p>\n[audio:Maroko_raadiost.mp3|titles=M\u00e4ngib kohalik raadio]\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Maroko-18s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Panoraam Fesist kaugustest n\u00e4htuna\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Maroko-18v.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"133\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7330_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Fesi vanalinn l\u00e4hemalt - \u00fcks suur tihemik\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7330_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"337\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Maroko-21s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Panoraam Fesi vanalinnast - nahav\u00e4rvimise t\u00f6\u00f6koda vasakul, kollakas-oran\u017eid plekid katustel on safrani baasil v\u00e4rviga v\u00e4rvitud nahad\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Maroko-21v.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"187\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7344_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"V\u00e4rvit\u00f6\u00f6koda\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7344_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"316\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Fesist edasi liikusime juba t\u00e4isaurul p\u00f5hja suunas, sihiks &#8220;sinise linnana&#8221; tuntud Chefchaouen. Ei teagi t\u00e4pselt, kuidas see nii on kujunenud, aga suur osa Chefchaoueni vanalinna majadest ja t\u00e4navatest on v\u00f5\u00f5batud siniseks. Ja mitte lihtsalt siniseks, vaid eri toonides siniseks, mis hoonete tekstuuriga kombineeritult m\u00f5jub ise\u00e4ranis lummavalt. Tekib tunne, nagu viibiks s\u00fcrreaalses unen\u00e4os &#8211; kord tundub, et majast kumaks mahedat, turvatunnet tekitavat valgust, siis j\u00e4lle paistab sinu peale \u00f6\u00f6klubi neoonsinine valgus, v\u00f5i niiv\u00f5rd \u00f5hk\u00f5rn sina, et on tunne, nagu oleks taevas. T\u00e4iesti ootamatu elamus, mida pildid p\u00e4ris h\u00e4sti edasi anda ei suuda.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Maroko-22s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Panoraam Chefchaouenist \u00fclalt (sinine vanalinn vasakul)\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Maroko-22v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"201\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Maroko-23s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Chefchaoueni t\u00e4navalt\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Maroko-23v.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"994\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7402_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Koduuks\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7402_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"353\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7381_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Chefchaoueni pisut v\u00e4rvilisem t\u00e4nav\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7381_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"795\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7409_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Hiljuti s\u00fcndinud kassipoeg t\u00e4naval - isegi silmad pole veel t\u00e4iesti lahti tulnud\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7409_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"353\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7368_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Laterna vari \u00f5rnsinakal seinal\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7368_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"817\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7411_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Pilt \u00fchest nendest sinistest poodidest seespoolt - mees uhkelt oma maitseainepoes\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7411_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"353\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7382_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Koduuks\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7382_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"353\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7391_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Elu j\u00e4lgiv k\u00f5uts Chefchaoueni t\u00e4naval\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7391_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"353\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7371_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"P\u00f5llult naasev naine\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7371_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"795\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7386_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Muinasjutuline sissep\u00e4\u00e4s kellegi hoovi\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7386_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"353\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7405_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Mulla vanalinna t\u00e4naval\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7405_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"353\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7412_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Kotid t\u00e4naval\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7412_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"353\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7410_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Justkui ulmefilmist - k\u00e4rud \u00fclisinises hoovis (jah, v\u00e4rvid ongi sellised s\u00fcrreaalsed, sest seinad on sellist v\u00e4rvi kolm korrust \u00fclespoole ja kogu &quot;hooviauku&quot; tulnud valgus on nendelt &quot;p\u00f5rkunud&quot;)\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7410_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"353\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Maroko-25s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"\u00c4rkav Chefchaouen vahetult enne p\u00e4ikeset\u00f5usu\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Maroko-25v.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"122\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Sellise eri toonides tundega asusime Chefchaouenist taas teele, ikka p\u00f5hja suunas, et \u00fcletada piir Aafrika mandril asuvasse Hispaania enklaavi Ceutasse. Piletid Ceuta &#8211; Algecirase praamile ostetud, seisime tsikliga praami sabas ning m\u00f5ttes j\u00e4tsime Aafrikaga h\u00fcvasti. Tegelikult oli Aafrika selja taha j\u00e4\u00e4nud juba \u00fcsna ammu, v\u00f5i v\u00e4hemalt see Aafrika, mis meile Aafrikaga seostub &#8211; must, metsik manner, mida nii h\u00e4sti iseloomustavad pildid suurte nuiadega hiiglaslikes uhmrites jahu tampivatest naistest ning tee \u00e4\u00e4res seisvatest veoautodest, mille all rekkajuhid s\u00fctel toitu valmistavad ning magavad, oodates mehhaanikut, varuosi v\u00f5i tont-teab-mida-veel. Mauritaaniast alates ei olnud see enam niiv\u00e4ga Aafrika, vaid pigem araabiamaa.<\/p>\n<p>Praamile s\u00f5ites tabas meid suur \u00fcllatus, kui selgus, et suur osa meeskonnast on eestlased, sealhulgas kapten. Tsikkel \u00fcliturvaliselt fikseeritud (meie viimaseid kogemusi Aafrika praamide ja piroogidega arvesse v\u00f5ttes tundusid k\u00f5ik need k\u00f6ied ja piduriklotsid ilmse liialdusena, kuid samas v\u00f5imsa meeldetuletusena, et olime j\u00f5udnud tagasi Euroopasse, reguleeritud ja reglementeeritud tsivilisatsiooni), v\u00f5tsime juba reisijatesalongis istet, kui meid kutsuti kaptenisillale, kus m\u00f6\u00f6duski terve meie s\u00f5it \u00fcle Gibraltari v\u00e4ina tagasi kodumandrile.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7438_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Gessu praamil Aafrikast tagasi Euroopasse - sai kontinentide vahetuse puhul ka lipp v\u00e4lja v\u00f5etud\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7438_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"353\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Euroopa-1s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Panoraam Ceuta praami kaptenisillast - kapten paremal on eestlane :)\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Euroopa-1v.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"314\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7449_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Kaptenikoha radaril on Euroopa m\u00e4ed n\u00e4ha - kodukontinent l\u00e4heneb\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7449_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"353\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Esimese asjana tagasi Euroopas olles tegime v\u00e4lkvisiidi Gibraltarile, suure kalju otsa, kust juba 2004. aastal olime kauguses sinavat Aafrika mandrit imetlenud. N\u00fc\u00fcd oli p\u00f5hjust peadp\u00f6\u00f6ritavat vaadet nautides l\u00e4ita <a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/?p=13388\" target=\"_blank\">Angolast<\/a>, Basilio poolt kaasa antud Cohiba sigar ning m\u00f5elda tagasi sellele, mis on olnud. Ja oli mis ta oli, ilmselt vastab t\u00f5ele v\u00e4ide, et pikem Aafrikas viibimine toob endaga tahes-tahtmata kaasa nakatumise kummalisse pisikusse, mis k\u00e4seb sinna tagasi minna\u2026.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7451_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Gibraltari tuletorn\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7451_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"349\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Euroopa-2s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Panoraam Gibraltari kohalt - olime siin 2004 mootorrattaga, seega meile s\u00fcdamel\u00e4hedane koht kus seekord meie jaoks j\u00e4rjekordne &quot;ring&quot; pidulikult t\u00e4is sai\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Euroopa-2v.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"104\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7452_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Margus Gibraltari otsas Angolast saadud sigarit suitsetamas, nostalgias tagasi Aafrikale vaatamas\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7452_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"353\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Eks ta ole olnud natuke nagu muinasjutt v\u00f5i unen\u00e4gu, see kolmeaastane ekspeditsioon &#8211; eriti tagantj\u00e4rele vaadates &#8211; k\u00f5ik need pildid ja helid, kohtumised ja juhtumised\u2026 Maroko oli m\u00e4\u00e4ratud olema selle unen\u00e4o l\u00f5ppvaatus &#8211; sellele j\u00e4rgnev Euroopa kui pika istumise j\u00e4rel toolist t\u00f5usmine, teatrisaalist v\u00e4ljumine, riiete lunastamine garderoobist, ning v\u00e4lja k\u00fclma ja tuule k\u00e4tte astumine, m\u00f5tted &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/?p=14659\" class=\"more-link\">Loe edasi <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Taevast maa peale tagasi<\/span> <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[427,3],"tags":[619,129,620,128,618,127,133],"class_list":["post-14659","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-aafrika","category-euroopa","tag-gibraltar","tag-helimaastikud","tag-hispaania","tag-linnad","tag-maroko","tag-muu-transport","tag-piiriuletus"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14659","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=14659"}],"version-history":[{"count":23,"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14659\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":14804,"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14659\/revisions\/14804"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=14659"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=14659"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=14659"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}