{"id":14501,"date":"2011-10-16T22:52:52","date_gmt":"2011-10-16T20:52:52","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/?p=14501"},"modified":"2011-10-16T22:52:52","modified_gmt":"2011-10-16T20:52:52","slug":"punases-linnas","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/?p=14501","title":{"rendered":"Punases linnas"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7007_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Naised naturaalset kraami ostmas\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7007_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"390\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Tegelikult ei olnud meil kindlat kavatsust Marrakechi minna, kuna kuuldavasti olla see iidne Maroko pealinn (Maroko nimigi on tuletatud Marrakechist, mis berberite keeles t\u00e4hendab &#8220;jumala maad&#8221;) t\u00e4is bussituriste ning ha\u0161i\u0161in\u00e4ljas <em>wannabe<\/em>-hipisid. Tavaliselt turistide \u00fclek\u00fcllus midagi head ei t\u00f5ota, ning Marrakechi puhul on (\u00e4\u00e4rmuslike) islamiusuliste kohalike emotsioonid miniseelikutes ning muidu nappides r\u00f5ivastes turistide suhtes leidnud ka valusa v\u00e4ljenduse &#8211; alles see oli, kui mediina peav\u00e4ljakul turistide seas populaarses kohvikus l\u00f5hkes pomm, mis tappis seitseteist inimest.<\/p>\n<p><!--more--><\/p>\n<p>Kummalisel kombel v\u00e4lisministeeriumi reisiinfo sedat\u00fc\u00fcpi infot ei sisalda ning mingeid hoiatusi Marokosse reisimise suhtes ei tee, ehkki tegemist on ilmselgelt r\u00fcnnakuga v\u00e4listuristide suhtes, samas kui n\u00e4iteks Mauritaaniasse v\u00f5i Burkina Fasosse, kus turistidega ei ole ammu midagi m\u00e4rkimisv\u00e4\u00e4rset juhtunud (v\u00e4hemalt ei ole \u00e4ra tapetud), ei soovita v\u00e4lisministeerium reisida. Surnud kodanikust ei ole muidugi nii palju jama kui pantvangis kodanikust\u2026<\/p>\n<p>Igatahes \u00fchest k\u00fcljest see turistide rohkus, teisest k\u00fcljest v\u00e4ike aga reaalne terrorioht, ei tekitanud meis teab mis suurt isu Marrakechi minna, kuid ometi j\u00e4i ta meile tee peale ning l\u00f5puke veetsime seal tervelt kolm \u00f6\u00f6d, uudistades mediina (tavaliselt m\u00fc\u00fcriga piiratud kvartal P\u00f5hja-Aafrika linnades, p\u00f5him\u00f5tteliselt vanalinn) kitsastel, lab\u00fcrindina kulgevatel t\u00e4navatel. Ja pidime tunnistama, et linnal on oma v\u00f5lu. Kohalikest \u00f5hkub k\u00fcll \u00fcksk\u00f5iksust, vaata et isegi t\u00fcdimust kaameraid v\u00e4lgutavate turistide suhtes &#8211; mida ei saa neile \u00fcldsegi mitte pahaks panna &#8211; kuid elu ei j\u00e4\u00e4 sellep\u00e4rast seisma. Kerjus ootab ikka, et talle m\u00fcnt visataks (ja viskajateks on valdavas enamuses kohalikud, mitte v\u00e4lismaalased &#8211; almuste andmine vaestele on islami \u00fcks alustalasid), aedviljakaupmees l\u00fckkab ikka oma k\u00e4ru m\u00f6\u00f6da kitsaid t\u00e4navaid edasi-tagasi (sest paljud t\u00e4navad l\u00f5pevad tupikus), kingsepp valmistab ikka oma v\u00e4ikeses t\u00f6\u00f6kojas kingi (k\u00fcllap neidsamu, mis esimese kandmise k\u00e4igus laiali kipuvad kukkuma), <em>hammami<\/em> (avalikku sauna) k\u00f6etakse ikka\u2026 Elu k\u00e4ib, hommikust \u00f5htuni toimub mediinas tihe sagimine, mis j\u00e4tkub veel \u00f6\u00f6pimeduseski.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Maroko-11s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Gessu hotellis sees, nagu peab :)\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Maroko-11v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"621\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Maroko-12s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Hammam (saun) k\u00f6eb\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Maroko-12v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"328\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Maroko-1s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Panoraam Marrakechi vanalinna t\u00e4navate hargnemiskohast\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Maroko-1v.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"113\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Maroko-2s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Panoraam Djemaa El Fna v\u00e4ljaku l\u00e4hedalt\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Maroko-2v.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"141\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Maroko-15s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Panoraam Marrakechi kohalt\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Maroko-15v.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"86\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Maroko-16s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"360-kraadine panoraam Djemaa El Fna v\u00e4ljaku p\u00e4evasest elust\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Maroko-16v.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"52\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM6916_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Vanalinna turul\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM6916_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"353\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM6915_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Marrakechi vanalinna turult\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM6915_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"346\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM6865_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Kalaroog Marokos\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM6865_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"353\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM6962_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Maitsvaid idamaiseid maiuseid valimas\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM6962_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"795\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM6963_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Idamaised maiused Marrakechi turul\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM6963_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"795\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM6990_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Kerjus vanalinna t\u00e4naval\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM6990_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"353\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM6997_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Vanalinna t\u00e4navapilt\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM6997_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"795\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7003_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Tegus elu vanalinna t\u00e4navatel\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7003_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"751\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM6960_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Vanalinna t\u00e4navalt\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM6960_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"795\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>\u00d6\u00f6pimeduses koondub osa sellest elust ja melust sellele samale peav\u00e4ljakule, Djemaa el Fna&#8217;le, kus on avatud mitmed-setmed grillrestoranid ning lugematud apelsinimahlakioskid, kus klaasi v\u00e4rskelt pressitud vitamiinikokteili saab k\u00f5igest nelja dirhami eest (0,4 EUR). Kuid mis k\u00f5ige paeluvam, ja ehk veidi vastuoluline, on sajandeid toimunud &#8220;vaba\u00f5huetendus&#8221;, kus k\u00fcmned muusikakollektiivid, maotaltsutajad, hennamaalingute tegijad ning tuleviku ennustajad seavad end v\u00e4ljakul sisse, et pealtvaatajaid l\u00f5bustada (ning selle eest vastutasuks agressiivselt raha n\u00f5uda). Kuulake!<\/p>\n[audio:Marrakech_Djema_el_Fna_megamix.mp3|titles=Marrakechi Djemaa el Fna v\u00e4ljaku eri elusmuusikab\u00e4ndide megamix &#8211; 6 erineva b\u00e4ndi n\u00e4idet lindistatud v\u00e4ljaku eri kohtades]\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Maroko-13s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Panoraam \u00f6isest Djemaa El Fna v\u00e4ljakust - siis lausa kihab siin elu - helid ja l\u00f5hnad\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Maroko-13v.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"191\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Maroko-14s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Panoraam \u00f6ise Marrakechi vanalinna kohalt\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/Maroko-14v.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"99\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM6903_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" title=\"Marrakechi \u00f6ine t\u00e4nav\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM6903_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"478\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Enne Marrakechist liikumist tegime \u00e4ra \u00fche \u00fcha kriitilisemaks muutuva remontt\u00f6\u00f6 &#8211; nimelt lasime uue vastu vahetada vana, v\u00e4ga kulunud amordipuksi (selle, mis j\u00e4rjest amordipolte s\u00f5i). \u00d5igeid t\u00f6\u00f6riistu polnud siingi saada (sealjuures Land Roveri ametlikus t\u00f6\u00f6kojas :P), aga leidlikult improviseerides saime kohalike mehhaanikute abiga t\u00fckikese meelerahu tagasi.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7020_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14619\" title=\"Puksi vahetus\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7020_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"353\" srcset=\"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7020_v.jpg 530w, https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7020_v-300x199.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 530px) 100vw, 530px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7024_s.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-14621\" title=\"Vana deformeerunud puks - ehk p\u00f5hjus miks meie amordipoldid k\u00f5ik murdusid\" src=\"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7024_v.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"530\" height=\"413\" srcset=\"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7024_v.jpg 530w, https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/10\/SDIM7024_v-300x233.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 530px) 100vw, 530px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Tegelikult ei olnud meil kindlat kavatsust Marrakechi minna, kuna kuuldavasti olla see iidne Maroko pealinn (Maroko nimigi on tuletatud Marrakechist, mis berberite keeles t\u00e4hendab &#8220;jumala maad&#8221;) t\u00e4is bussituriste ning ha\u0161i\u0161in\u00e4ljas wannabe-hipisid. Tavaliselt turistide \u00fclek\u00fcllus midagi head ei t\u00f5ota, ning Marrakechi puhul on (\u00e4\u00e4rmuslike) islamiusuliste kohalike emotsioonid miniseelikutes ning muidu nappides r\u00f5ivastes turistide suhtes leidnud ka &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/?p=14501\" class=\"more-link\">Loe edasi <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">Punases linnas<\/span> <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[427],"tags":[129,128,618,117,123,126],"class_list":["post-14501","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-aafrika","tag-helimaastikud","tag-linnad","tag-maroko","tag-raha","tag-sook-ja-jook","tag-turismiatraktsioon"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14501","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=14501"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14501\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":14656,"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14501\/revisions\/14656"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=14501"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=14501"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=14501"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}