{"id":13222,"date":"2011-07-10T23:09:56","date_gmt":"2011-07-10T21:09:56","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/?p=13222"},"modified":"2011-07-10T23:09:56","modified_gmt":"2011-07-10T21:09:56","slug":"mineviku-varjud","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/?p=13222","title":{"rendered":"Mineviku varjud"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Lubango j\u00e4i selja taha, ning p\u00e4rast mitmetunnist loksumist auklikel teedel j\u00f5udsime Benguelasse. Sama nime kannab muide ka k\u00fclm hoovus, mille t\u00f5ttu ekvaatorist allapoole j\u00e4\u00e4va Aafrika l\u00e4\u00e4nerannik n\u00e4eb v\u00e4lja enamasti kuiv ja k\u00f5le – t\u00e4ielik vastand idaranniku sulnile troopikale. Ja samanimeline on ka m\u00f6\u00f6dunud sajandi \u00fcks grandioossemaid projekte siinmail – niinimetatud Benguela raudtee, mille ehitamist alustati 1904 ning mis valmis alles pea kolmk\u00fcmmend aastat hiljem.<\/p>\n

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Belgia Kongos ning Sambias asuvaid vasekaevandusi ning Benguela k\u00fclje all asuvat Lobito sadamat \u00fchendav raudtee oli 1960ndate l\u00f5puks Angola suurim ettev\u00f5te, pakkudes t\u00f6\u00f6d 14 000 inimesele. T\u00e4na on asjalood muidugi teised, sest s\u00f5ja k\u00e4igus lasti koos suure osa riigi infrastruktuuriga palju raudteejaamu ja -sildu \u00f5hku ja see, mida n\u00e4eme, on varemed.<\/p>\n

Lobitos sattusime n\u00e4gema raudtee \u00f5itsenguajast p\u00e4rit masinaid, mis v\u00e4\u00e4riksid muuseumis seismist, kuid selle asemel roostetavad kurvalt tee \u00e4\u00e4res. Raske tunne tekib neid vaadates, s\u00f5na otseses m\u00f5ttes.<\/p>\n

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Lobito on muidu selline kummaline linn – nagu nad Angolas suuresti kipuvad olema – esmapilgul vaatad, et agul mis agul, aga l\u00e4hemalt vaadates on selles palju grandioossust, v\u00f5iks isegi \u00f6elda, et v\u00e4ljapeetust – k\u00f5ik need koloniaalaja hooned ning palmidega \u00e4\u00e4ristatud promenaadid\u2026 Raudtee hiilgeaegadel t\u00e4htsast sadamalinnast ei k\u00e4inud l\u00e4bi mitte ainult palju kaupa, vaid ka palju raha, mis on kogu seda opulentsust v\u00f5imaldanud. Kuid nagu Angolas ikka, tegi s\u00f5da oma h\u00e4vitust\u00f6\u00f6 ning kummitama j\u00e4\u00e4b l\u00f5puks ikka nukker nostalgia.<\/p>\n

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Teele Luanda suunas, mis on Angola pealinn, j\u00e4i ka veidi tooremat kraami – p\u00e4rast L\u00f5una-Aafrika ja Namiibia k\u00f5rget arengutaset oli v\u00e4rskendav n\u00e4ha Aafrika stiilis turge ning naisi j\u00f5e \u00e4\u00e4res pesu ja endid pesemas. Ja pisut ehmatavana m\u00f5jus taas see, mismoodi meid suurel mootorrattal veidi umbusklikult, m\u00f5nikord isegi kartlikult vaadati. Kui seisma j\u00e4ime, et tee\u00e4\u00e4rsest letist m\u00f5ned puuviljad osta, ei tekkinud elevat saginat, vaid tumm vaikus, katkestatud \u00e4revate sosinate poolt, justkui oleksime kassina hiirte peole sisse sadanud. V\u00e4hehaaval ebamugavus muidugi lahtus, kuid juba ammu pole midagi sellist kogenud.<\/p>\n

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Loomulikult tuli pimedus enne peale kui kuskile v\u00e4lja j\u00f5udsime – Angola on ikkagi v\u00e4ga suur riik. Polnud muud varianti, kui keerata teelt maha ja telk savannisesse “v\u00f5ssa” panna. Angolas on endiselt tohutu hulk maamiine, seega oli see meil \u00fcks p\u00e4ris stressirikas ettev\u00f5tmine, otsides poolpimeduses loomade poolt sissek\u00e4idud radu ja ka telgi pidime otse raja peale panema, lootes, et \u00f6\u00f6sel m\u00f5ni lehm telgi otsa ei koperdaks. Lisaks on pea igal pool kuiva aastaaja t\u00f5ttu p\u00f5lengud, seega otsisime juba \u00e4rap\u00f5lenud koha ja panime ennast sinna tuha peale siis p\u00fcsti, minimeerides riski, et kilomeeter eemal horisondis helendav p\u00f5leng meieni \u00f6\u00f6 jooksul j\u00f5uaks. “Vetsus” k\u00e4isime samuti \u00fclima ettevaatlikusega m\u00f6\u00f6da loomade poolt juba sissek\u00e4idud radu.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Lubango j\u00e4i selja taha, ning p\u00e4rast mitmetunnist loksumist auklikel teedel j\u00f5udsime Benguelasse. Sama nime kannab muide ka k\u00fclm hoovus, mille t\u00f5ttu ekvaatorist allapoole j\u00e4\u00e4va Aafrika l\u00e4\u00e4nerannik n\u00e4eb v\u00e4lja enamasti kuiv ja k\u00f5le – t\u00e4ielik vastand idaranniku sulnile troopikale. Ja samanimeline on ka m\u00f6\u00f6dunud sajandi \u00fcks grandioossemaid projekte siinmail – niinimetatud Benguela raudtee, mille ehitamist alustati … Loe edasi Mineviku varjud<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[427],"tags":[1144],"class_list":["post-13222","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-aafrika","tag-angola"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13222","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=13222"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13222\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":13336,"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13222\/revisions\/13336"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=13222"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=13222"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/yhelteljel.ee\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=13222"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}